I prefer mu4e (mu for email) although ultimately I'm still using my gmail account just with another interface. I like the idea of ultimately just setting up a mail server but realistically its really really hard to switch everything at once when you have a lot of existing accounts so I'll probably be maintaining a gmail account forever.
I'm trying maps.me because unlike google it does offline walking directions but I haven't used it enough.
I really want to like duck duck go but it feels like google still provides better results.
Gmail is painful compared with OWA (work) and zoho (home), I stopped using my gmail account for new stuff about a year ago.